We’d seen a lot of what Galicia had to offer but for our latest trip we went just a little bit more east, into the region of Castile and Leon and more specifically the locale of Ponferrada. So far inland there were no beaches but we were after history and a bit of hiking in spectacular countryside. We were rewarded with both.

We’d booked three nights in a cottage in a small hamlet just outside Ponferrada which was about 4.5 hours driving from home. As is the norm, we decided to break our journey half way for a spot of lunch and we happened upon a great little restaurant, Bodegon Ribeira Sacra in the town of Monfort de Lemos. Suitably refreshed we drove on to our final destination, the village of Villanueva de Valdueza. As it happened our cottage was next door to the ancient (11th century) romanesque church of the village. Unfortunately it was locked during our time there so we had to admire it just from the outside.

After settling in to the cottage that evening we went for a pleasant stroll through the village and along the banks of the Rio Oza.

Up early the next morning and after breakfast we headed for one of the highlights of the trip, the Roman gold mines of Las Médulas. As we had got there fairly early, the small tourist village was still very quiet and car park empty. We were soon following the track marked Senda de las Valerias which would take us up to a viewpoint of the area. It was pretty steep going through an old chestnut forest so we were surprised the other tourists didn’t arrive until the heat of the day.

Once at the top we were rewarded with some stunning views.

That wasn’t all though. I spotted a small sign to Las gallerias. Following it we saw the entrance to the original tunnels excavated by the Romans. A man there took an entrance fee and gave us hard hats and we descended into the hills. The tunnels were very small although well lit. It was also pleasantly cool. Betty led the way.

The way down was much quicker.

It was getting pretty hot now so after a quick drink in the village we dropped Betty off at the cottage and then headed into Ponferrada for a spot of lunch at the Hostal La Encina, an excellent choice not far from the Templar castle. We then had to wait a while for the castle to open after a pretty long lunch break.

Then back to the cottage for a rest before heading out again with Betty to Molinaseca. I’d spotted this small place on the map and thought it might be worth exploring. When we got there the centre of town by the bridge and the river was packed with people swimming and chilling so we went for a wander down the old alleys. The alleys were lined with old houses with wooden balconies where loads of swallows had made their homes. As it is on the Camino de Santiago, it’s quite a popular little place but also very relaxed and scenic.

The following day we had planned to go to Penalba de Santiago, supposedly one of the prettiest villages in Spain. However, as it was a Saturday and a very popular tourist destination and had the tiniest of access road, we decided to change plans and go for a walk from our cottage which was a pleasant alternative.

After the walk, then the touristy bit. We headed to another Roman site, this time the town of Astorga. But we didn’t go to see Roman ruins but the more modern 19th century Episcopal Palace designed by Gaudi. In fact one of only two Gaudi designed buildings outside Catalonia. It was very impressive, but I couldn’t help comparing it with the castle at Disneyworld. Possibly the best thing about it was the room with the virtual reality goggles allowing wearers to go on a flight around and in the building.

Astorga is on the Camino de Santiago and so part of the Episcopal Palace is devoted to a small museum of the Camino with some artifacts and paintings.

The Bishop’s dining room. Famously the Bishop never lived there, Gaudi never got to finish it himself and so it eventually became a museum.

Next to the Palace is the impressive Cathedral built in 1471, unfortunately we only got to see the edifice…

…because we were off to lunch in the town square with the Town hall built in 1683 and the restaurant Astur Plaza. I’m not sure when that was built, but they put on an excellent Menu del Dia.

The municipal car park is just outside the city walls next to the Gaudi Palace and on the way back to the car we heard a bird calling its parents. Looking up high into the city wall in a small crevice we could see a kestrel chick!

That evening we stayed at the cottage, or rather had a small picnic in the garden and rested up before the journey home. Rather than have breakfast in the cottage we decided to set off early and do one of our favourite things in Spain – have the traditional Spanish brekko in a cafe: Pan con tomate and cafe con leche. Our favourite!

We decided to take the long way home via Celanova and see its famous Plaza Maior and Monastery. As it happens the central square was very busy – it was a Sunday and so there was a big event, everyone dressed in their finery, probably a confirmation. However we found a quiet alley for lunch and then continued our journey home.

 

Photostream of the trip