City break
We’d been wanting to visit our friends in Paris for quite some time and as luck would have it our time had come. Our pet sitter from a few years ago would be happy to stay and look after Betty while we were away. So preparations were made. We’d always wanted to go by train but didn’t realise how difficult, or expensive it would be. I will spare the details but it turned out many times more expensive than flying and we had to go on a bit of a circuitous trip and involve a nervous and rushed transfer across Madrid. More of that later.
19th April 2026. The first leg was an early start, in the car, to Vigo where we had booked parking next to the train station.
Our first train leg was the quick trip from Vigo to Santiago de Compostela on a local train. Cue our first problem. All Spanish train tickets have seats allocated. We got on the train but our seats didn’t exist! Throughout the trip we noted that the railway staff were all very friendly and helpful and we were told on this particular train it was free seating. We were off!
After a short stop in Santiago, our first change. Now onto the Ave Fast train to Madrid. We had booked first class seats, so it was all very pleasant riding at 300km/h through the Spanish countryside.
At Madrid we were expecting our first problem. There was only one hour scheduled between our arrival at Chamartin Station in the north of Madrid and our departure to Barcelona from Atocha in the south. The connection was by local train. It seemed the transfer from high speed network to local network could be problematic. Also our train arrived 10 minutes late. As it happened, the transfer was quite quick and we did it in 30 mins. Also, as we were first class we skipped the queue and were soon settled in our comfy leather seats in a spacious cabin. Like the first leg it was another 3 hours to Barcelona but this time in an Iryo train. We could sit back relax and have a tortilla and beer.
Hotels in Barcelona are really expensive! We had selected Hotel Transit as it had excellent reviews and was within walking distance of the train station. I have to say almost €200 for a night in a modest but comfortable hotel was a bit of a shock.
Likewise, we had selected the nearby restaurant Brasas El Pera based in its reviews and were rather disappointed with our meals. Mainly I think because we were confused by the menu but anyway, we were fed and watered and had survived our first day!
Being April, we had scoured the weather pages to guide us on what to wear. Up until a few days before departure we were told it could be rather cool and showery. As it happened we were bathed in sunshine for the entire trip. If anything it was rather hot! We had one full day to enjoy Barcelona but what to do? We couldn’t get tickets for the inside of the Sagrada Familia so we had to be content with the outside. But what a building! And still not finished. There were plenty of tourists but not the hordes we were expecting, yet.
From here we decided to walk towards the old quarter and take in a few of Gaudi’s other important buildings, including Casa Mia and Casa Batllo. On the way, I was quite surprised how pleasant, quiet, cool and shady the tree lined roads were.
As we neared the old quarter and cathedral, that’s when we hit the hordes of tourists and also the tat shops, all seemingly run by Bangladeshis. At least we could tick off a must do: buy a Barca fridge magnet.
I liked the old quarter though – lots of interesting narrow lanes lined with beautiful old buildings, often converted into a tourist shop. Soon it was time for lunch. I’d earmarked the Meson Jesus and it didn’t disappoint, even though Jackie, not for the first time, bemoaned the fact that none of the waiters, or food, were of the “traditional” Spanish style. I’ve also got to include our meal photos:
Then back outside to the Boqueria market and La Rambla which they were working on at the time. Wall to wall tourists again
And then quite a long but interesting walk to the hotel.
21 April. Another early start. Interesting to see all the people having breakfast and cycling to work. Back at the station security wasn’t as bad as we expected and as before they wouldn’t allow anyone on the platform untill 30 minutes till departure. This time it was the French TGV InOui train. We had managed to bag the “upstairs” carriage and therefore some great views of the Pyrenees and the flamingos and white horses of the Camargue. Just as well there was plenty to see as it was almost 7 hours. Along the way we bought some wine on the train to accompany a salmon salad we brought with us.
But just after 4pm we arrived at the Gare de Lyon and quickly hopped on the Metro to Mont Marte where we were met by our friends Gareth and Nicky. Emerging from the station we immediately knew we were in the centre of Paris, four picture perfect Parisian cafes. From here a short walk to their flat which had a huge garden and a view to Sacre Couer which was just round the corner. However, they have lived here long enough to take us to a very local, tourist-free restaurant that night, the wonderful Chez Ginette. Perfect!