INDIA 26: Gujarat. Stage 6.

The Gir National Park was another place I visited in 1994 and very different now! I could tell that in my research for the trip. In 1994 the only place to stay was the Government rest house. Now there were hundreds of places. Obviously due to the success of the lions. There were 284 in 1994 and almost 900 today. So, like in 1994, the chances are I would get to see at least one or two! Like in 1994 I arrived by local train. The seats were just hard wooden benches like before but this time there were no monkeys to welcome me!

In 1994 I somehow got a spot in a jeep straightaway, headed off, saw some lions and other wildlife, then rather than stay at the rest house I decided to move on and got a bus to Diu. This time I was to stay a few days, not least because I had found it impossible to get a permit outside the country and I was told it may be easier to go directly to the park office. First up I got a 3 wheeler to my hotel, the excellent Gir Birding Lodge (NB They could have booked a safari for me if I had contacted them earlier). It was a very good location in that it was pretty close to Sasan Gir where the Park headquarters and railway station were and it is also in a good spot to see plenty of wildlife right there.

It also includes breakfast and lunch so I had a great curry lunch…

..and then set off to the Park Headquarters to see about booking a safari, spotting a bit of wildlife on the way.

The main safaris get booked out months in advance but I could get a jeep going to the Devalia Park. This is a much smaller area, apparently fenced off, but has a healthy population of lions. On my own it cost an arm and a leg (6500Rs for the permit, 2500Rs for the jeep and 400Rs for the guide) but I didn’t have much option. The lady at the office said I could go straight away. So much for having to book a specific time.

So the jeep showed up with guide inside and off we went. I have to say it was much better than I anticipated.

The leopard was in a fenced off area but the rest were roaming about wild. The guide said as it was late afternoon, the lions would be asleep. It would be better to go in the early morning so I booked another safari for a few days time. So anyway, a pretty good first day.

21st Feb

The next day I had arranged with the hotel guide, Amit, to go for a walk near the Lodge down to the river. He told me we could only go so far as the forestry department forbade people to go much further as there was a danger from lions.  I hadn’t heard of any people being taken though. There were plenty of fish in the river and Amit told me the Department had forbidden the local villagers from fishing as well although he said they fished at night and actually later, when I went on my own, I saw people fishing in the middle of the day. He was very knowledgeable, spotting and identifying many birds. No problem identifying the big boys in the river though. These are Mugger Crocodiles.

Then back to the lodge for another great lunch and a bit of bird watching in the mango grove around the cottages.

 

The following day was a rest day. I went for a swim (in the swimming pool!) and went for a few walks around the lodge and back down to the river. This time there were only a couple of crocs. The river seemed to be much higher. Then on my final day at Gir I’d arranged a 3 wheeler to pick me up at 6am and take me to the park headquarters where a number of jeeps were already lined up and ready to go. I haven’t mentioned it, but the Park Headquarters is in the village of Sasan Gir, where I got the train, and the National Park actually abuts the village so you don’t need to drive very far. And in fact, apparently, most of the lions live outside the National Park. Later when I got the bus to my final destination, Diu on the south coast of Gujarat, we went through large swathes of uninhabited scrubby jungle and I guess that’s where they live. I didn’t see any lions from the bus but plenty of their prey – the deer. Back to the safari. Being early in the morning the lions were a bit more active and one walked right past our jeep. I’m just really disappointed I didn’t video the occasion, I think I was just too excited.

In fact, the National Park also abuts the Gir Birding Lodge so after the safari I was dropped off at the door in time for breakfast and then check out. There was a bit of confusion about when there would be a bus, but soon enough I was on the way to my final destination…Diu.

More photos of my trip to Gir here