Interestingly Damraj from the Desert Riders asked why I was going to Bhuj and it seems I had similar questions when going to the same place in 1994. However my diary at the time said it was a pretty good place, full of interesting people and buildings. I was fascinated to see how much had changed in 30 years.

But first, I had to get there. Dhamraj had kindly made arrangements for me to be picked up by the side of the main road by a deluxe bus going to Bhuj. However I also had to get a local bus, or rather a small van, to take me to the agreed place on the main road and then I had to wait an hour and a half for the bus. Fortunately the driver spotted me and I got on. Although it was only travelling during the day it was a sleeper and I had my own curtained off area to lie in. 6 hours later we approached Bhuj. Much bigger than I imagined but I got a 3 wheeler to the exact same guest house I stayed in 30 years previously! The City Guest House. Speaking to the boss, he said that he wasn’t here in 1994 but it was run by his brother in those days. They had suffered damage during the earthquake of 2001 but managed to reopen 2 years later. I must say I didn’t see much damage and was very happy with my room, especially at 800Rs a night (€8).

SO then I headed out for something to eat. Bhuj was a bit odd in that there were no restaurants open in the middle of the afternoon so I decided to load up on fruit and snacks, in this case a bbq corn on the cob and a dabeli, a local, dare I say it “delicacy” a type of potato burger! It was pretty good though.

13 Feb 2026

I had a decision to make. I wanted to hire a moped, as I often do, but I had to decide whether to go north, to the flat open salt pans of the Ran of Kutch which are supposed to be amazing and visit some local craft villages but quite some distance or go to the coast, which was a bit closer and a more attractive ride, and the small town of Mandvi. I decided on the latter. So I was up early. Early enough to be out with the street sweepers who wanted me to take a photo of them!

Then to Jolly Autos to rent a Honda Activa for 800Rs for the day. The road to Mandvi was pretty good, very quiet, with greenery on either side then turning into a desert-like scrub featuring lots of thorn bushes and spiny cacti. IT was about 60 kms which took 1.5 hours but then I could taste the sea air. Coming from an island I love the sea air but in India it is often overpowered by other less salbubrious odours. As well as being a small seaside resort, Manvi is famous for its shipbuilding industry and my first stop was to see the huge dhows being built on the estuary bank. These vessels, which can reach capacities of 2,000 tonnes and dimensions of over 50 meters in length, are built from sal wood (imported from Malaysia or locally sourced babool trees) and sealed with a mixture of cotton and fish oil.  While the industry once thrived as a major hub for trade with East Africa and Arabia, it has significantly declined due to competition from modern steel ships and regulatory restrictions on wooden vessels in pirate-prone waters. Apparently smaller versions are still built here for the Gulf countries.

From here I left the bike to wander the town. I loved the narrow lanes overhung by old houses.

I couldn’t resist another thing the town was famous for : Bandhani tye dye.

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From here I got back on the bike and headed the few kilometers to the beach.

On the beach there was the full Indian beach experience: Indian holiday makers (from Indore), people paddling, cows ambling by and even a few dogs cooling off in the water.

I then had lunch at the HV Resort Beach restaurant. The ubiquitous thali for 180Rs. Very nice too.

From here I went a bit up the coast to the Vijay Vilash Palace home of the last Raja of Bhuj. I don’t think it has been touched since hi s day either as it was rather musty inside and filled with Victorian stuffed armchairs and Indian stuffed tigers. Excellent views from the roof where I was on selfie duty with some more tourists, this time from Baroda.

From here back to Bhuj

But one last stop. the Chhatardis of Bhuj these were built in around 1770 and were the tombs of the last royal Rajputs of Bhuj. They suffered a great deal of damage in the earthquake and unfortunately haven’t been renovated that well. Nevertheless an interesting place to visit.

Just outside the site I was stopped by this bloke who insisted I posed for a photo with his cat. Bizarre things happen in India! I feel a bit sorry for his cat as it was rather hot.

14 Feb 2026.

Last day in Bhuj, I thought I would just have a wander round the old city.